Method of making boots and shoes.



PATENTED NOV. 27, 1906.

P. HEIBERT. METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES.

2 APPLICATION FILED AUG. 11 1900.

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PATENTED NOV. 27, 1906..

P. HE'BERT.

METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 11. 1900.

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and to the rest of the sole.

" UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

PLACIDE shelter, or LYNN. MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO GEORGE H. CUSHM-AN, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND sHoEs.

Application filed August 11,1900. Serial No. 26.604.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, PLACIDEHI JBERT, of Lynn, in 'the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Boots and Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention has for its object the production of a new and improved shoe; and it consists in the method of making the same, substantially as hereinafter described and claimed.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this application, in which like characters indicate like parts wherever they occur.

Figure 1 represents in pers ective view my combined inner and outer so e looking down upon the bottom side. 11 a1 sectional view thereof. Fig. 3 is a bottom plan view thereof. Fig. 4 is a top lan view thereof. Fig. 5 is a cross-scctiona view on the line 5 5 of Fig. 3, showing the top and bottom channelsand their relation to each other Fig. 6 is a like view taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 2, showing the relation of the sections to the fore part of the sole. Fig. 7 re resents in side elevation a last with my com ined sole attached thereto ready for the application of the upper. Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view on the line 8 8 of Fig. 7. Fig. 9 represents in-bottom lan view the vamp lasted to the fore part 0 my combined sole. Fig. 10 isa cross-sectional view on the line 10 10 of Fig. 9. Fig. llrepresents in perspective the parts represented in Fig. 9. Fig. 12 represents in perspective a shoe at the completion of the lasting operation, the under flap being tipped up to showthe relation of the vamp, quarter, and sole and the manner of the attachment of the vamp and the quarter and stay-piece to the sole.

quarter. Fig. 14 represents a cross-sectional view on the line 14 14 of Fig. 13. Fig. 15represents a like view on the line 15 15 of Fig. 13.

My combined sole consists of a fore part 2 Fig. 2 is a longitudi Fig. 13 re resents a view of the shoe after the sole has cen sewed to the vamp an'l 10, a to -channel flap 11, and with a bottom channe 12 and bottom-channel flap 13.

Beginning with the heel part, the sole is, as shown, divided into an upper flap 3 and a lower flap 4 by a cut extending through the heel and shank of the sole up to the fore part.

is made narrower than the bottom flap (see Figs. 2, 4, 6, 7, and 11) in order to provide room for the ap lication of the counter and quarter. (See igs. 11 and 12.) The sole as thus constructed serves as a combinedinner and outer sole, the channels 10 serving for the lasting of the vamp 20, the counter 60, and uarter 21, and the stayiece 22 being laste to the reduced end of t 1e upper heelpiece 5. The channel 12 rovides for the stitches 30, that permanently unite the fore part to the vamp and the fore part to the uarter 21, the rear part of the quarter and t e counter and stay-piece being connected by stitches 31 that pass through the edge of the heeliece '6, edgeof the quarter, staypiece,an counter, and edge of the heel-piece 5, thus securin the two parts together with the edge of. the quarter, stay-piece, and counter between them. It will be observed that the channel 12 and flap 13 extend rearwardly to the heel portion of the shoe. (See Fi 's. 3 and 13.)

n lastin a shoe where my improved sole is employed thesole is first secured to the bottom of the last 50 by tacks 51. The vamp is then stretched about the last by any pre ferred method, the edges thereof being brought into the channel 10-, where they are secured by tacks 52. (See Figs-9, '10, and 11.) After the shoe has been lasted, as shown in Fig. 11, it is removed from the last and the shoe'turned and replaced upon the last. The edges of the counter 60, quarter 21 ,and stay-lpiece 22 are then stretched. in

lace upon t 1e ed e of the reduced upper eel 1806 5 (see ig. 12) and'secured in place y tacks 53. The shankiece 68 is inserted between the flaps 5 an 6 and secured in place by a tack 61. (See Fig. 12,- in which figure a part of the quarter is broken away in order to show the arrangement of the quarter with respect to the reduced part of the heel-piece 5, a portion of the vamp and Patented Nov. 27. 1906. n

(See 7.) The top flap 3 at the heel part sole being broken away in order to show the relation of the latter to the fla 11.) The shank-piece 68 when the two aps of the sole are united by the stitches 30 and 31 serves to stiffen the shoe and support it, the inste particularly, as in the case of the socalle McKay or welt shoe. Heretofore turned shoes when equipped with a shank-piece have had said shankiece applied on theinside of the shoe to t e top of the' sole, resulting in very little if any material advantage, whereas by my method the shank-piece 1s incorporated inside the top portion of the sole itself along the instep or shank portion, thereby giving the sole at that part the support it would have were the inner and outersole employed with the shankpiece, as in the old method of the McKay or welt shoe. From inspection of Fig. 12 it will be seen that the vamp is-lasted in the channel and secured in place by tacks 51, extending toward the bottom of the sole, while the counter, stay-piece, and quarter are lasted upon the ed e of the reduced heelpiece 5, secured in place by tacks extending toward the last or the top of the sole. Of course it is understood that in place of employing tacks in the lasting operation I may employ a string or any other securing devices as may be preferred, the tacks simply being shown for purposes of illustration.

The shoe being lasted as described, the last is then removed and the sole permanently united to the vamp by stitches passing down through the sole in the channel 12, under the flap 13, and through the fiap 11. (See Figs. 14 and 15.) The stitches 31 permanentl secure the flap 11 to the sole with the e ge of the vam and part of the quarter between them. T e rear part of the counter, the quarter, and stay-piece are permanently secured to the sole by stitches 31, lpassing down throu h the rear end of the bee g ieces 5 and 6. See Fig. 13.) After the s 0e has been sewed the flap 13 is rubbed down upon the stitches 30, and by the levelin or other operation the various parts of the so e are consolidated and put into the form and shape desired.

By my invention I am enabled to do away with the two separate soles and the labor attendant upon the manipulation of such separate pieces, besides providing for a large saving in the cost and manufacture of the shoe. Furthermore, by making the shoe with one sole instead of an inner and outer sole sewed together I provide a shoe whose sole is flexible, as in the case of the turned shoes, which is not liable to squeak, and has none of the objections inherent to shoes constructed with two independent soleieces sewed together. In my shoe there can be no play of one sole upon the other to cause squeaking and the more serious objection of a. sawing action on the stitches to cut them. Further, the fore part of my sole is practically uninjured and secured upon the shoe with its original strength practically unimpaired, not having been cut, as in the case of the turned shoe with the top slip required in such shoes in the sewin operation. Further, the action of the free e ge of the flap 11 upon the upper is that of a shoulder and revents the up er-or vamp from bein pulled up to show t e stitches, causing wTlat is known in other styles of shoes as grinning. In the manufacture of turned shoes it 1s necessary to provide a filler on the top of the sole between the lines of stitches in order to equalize the ridge made by the stitched lines. Where my invention is em loyed, the sole of the completed shoe is ievel and smooth. Moreover, inasmuch as the upper is not cut away the shoe can be repaired without difficulty at any time.

In place of the stitches 30. and 31 I may employ slug-nails or wire or any desired form of fastening means.

Having thus explained the nature of my invention and described a way of constructing and using the same, though without attempting to set forth all the forms in which it may be made or all the modes of its use, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The method of making a shoe which consists in taking a sole having a channel in the up er side of its fore part and an upper channe -flap and havin its heel and shank divided into upper and ower flaps, applying the sole to a last with the channel-flap outward, stretching the vam turned inside out about the ast and over the edge of the sole, fastening the vamp to the sole securely enough so that it can be turned, laying the channel-flap over the edge of the vamp, turning the partially-lasted shoe, re-

lastlng and securing the counter and quarter of the upper to the upper flap of the sole, laying the ower fla over t e edges of the quarter, and stite ing through and through the sole, the flaps of the sole, and the edges of the upper entirely around the fore part and sides of the shank and heel part of the shoe by a continuous o eration.

2. The metho of making a shoe which consists in taking a sole having a channel in the upper side of its fore art and an upper channel-flap and having its heel and shank divided into upper and lower flaps, applying the sole to a last with the channel-flap outward, stretching the vam turned inside out about the ast and over the edge of the sole, fastening the vamp to the sole securely encughso thatit can be turned, laying the channel-flap over the edge of the vamp, turning the partially-lasted shoe, relasting and securing the .counter and quarter of the of an upper IIO of an upper upper to the upper fia of the sole, laying the In testimony whereof I have affixed my lower flip oger th; e lges (if %he quariter, sesignature in presence of two witnesses. curing t e e ges 0 so e, so eaps an upper together by a series of fastenings, and sepa- PLACIDE HEBERT' rately stitching through the rear ends of the Witnesses:

sole-flaps and the interposed edges of the I A. D. HARRISON,

counter and quarter. H. L. ROBBINS. 

